I see nobody noticed I got the date wrong on yesterday's post. Will fix.
Today was our toughest yet; although not the longest. 119 km. but with over 1400 meters of climbing (climbing Mt. Washington to the lodge is 1100 meters vertical).
We started from the hotel in Newcastle and worked our way out of town. Cloudy and chilly, but not raining. At about 37 km we left the road and went onto a portion of the National Cycling Network, a set of connecting trails for cyclists. A lot of the trails are not that great for touring bikes, and can be muddy, so Gergo (tour leader) had been avoiding them until now. This one was quite dry and was an old rail bed. It was easy to ride on, and was mostly below the adjacent grade (no views). With the trees growing over it often seemed like travelling in a tunnel. We rode about 10 km of the trail and went under about 5 of these old brick overpasses. Most of them seemed disused now.
A bonus at the end. An old train station (Thorpe Thewles) had been converted into a tea room. Latte & a warm scone with clotted cream and jam. Wonderful!
Maybe a bad spot to pull over for a pee, eh? (I survived)
As usual, we stopped for lunch about midway through the ride. After lunch the serious hill climbing started. Not super high (a bit over 250 meters) but steep and lots of them. It also got foggy, drizzly and cold. Didn't they tell them it's June!
At the top of one of the hills I tried for a photo of the farm fields through the fog. I used one of the fancy settings on the camera to make the landscape stand out more, which also makes the fields greener than they actually look. But you can see the pretty landscape.
Down the a hill and into one of the villages (Aislaby, I think) we passed this nice old house with the sign "Duke of Wellington, Accommodation."
Laura and I stopped for a snack at the top of the last major hill. It was beside a sheep farm, where the locals got interested in us when we started munching on M&Ms.
Too cute!!
After that it was mostly downhill to Whitby. Into our hotel, showers and a trip to the Black Horse, the local bar recommended by one of the staff of our bike tour company.
Whitby is a fishing town on the east coast, and also a popular tourist destination. Great Fish & Chips for dinner (with another beer, of course).
The most prominent feature on the hill overlooking Whitby is the Whitby Abbey, built in the 7th century.
Here are two long distance photos of it. Unfortunately, to late arriving and no time to visit.
Left side of hill.
And to the right of the above.
As I mentioned Whitby is a fishing town. Here is a view across the harbour from our hotel.
The inner boat harbour. Very busy with a lot of boats, yachts and I saw a couple of 4 person rowing teams practicing as well.
And here is the low bridge at the entrance to the harbour. It is not connected in the centre; it opens by both halves rotating on huge bearings on each side. I don't think I've seen this style before.
I'll finish today with the Complaint department. In the last two hotels we've stayed in, both bathrooms are equipped with toilets with RECTANGULAR seats. Who invented those???
Do you know anybody whose behind would fit comfortably on those, especially somebody whose butt has just pedaled over 300 km in the last 3 days?
A shorter day today - 91 km with no large hills. Cloudy morning turning into a beautiful day in the afternoon.
Castle & modern history time. This is Alnwick Castle. I don't know any of its ancient history but its modern history includes being used for some of the exterior shots in the Harry Potter series.
A closer view. We didn't go in, but rode around it getting pictures.
This was taken from a bridge over a stream adjacent the castle. I don't know what it's about, but the title "Lion with a Poker Up His Butt" comes to mind.
(Greg - don't be so disrespectful!)
Further along, here's a typical railway crossing - barriers and a small gate house.
Further along, another lovely place for us to have lunch. From a plaque in the adjacent park I learned that this was the site of the
Bedlington Iron & Engine works 1736 - 1867. The locomotive shop was on the other side of the river.
The roads today were all secondary roads - narrow, but not a lot of traffic and generally good pavement.
Today's educational segment is Roundabout Etiquette. Here is a typical sign.
Is anybody familiar with any of the names, other than Newcastle?
Problem - most of the roundabouts have two traffic lanes, inner and outer.
Rule 1 - Traffic entering the roundabout must yield to traffic already in it. I can handle that.
Rule 2 - If you are going from one entrance to the adjacent exit you must stay in the outer lane. (You will be tested later).
Rule 3 - If you are going around 2 roads (eg. in the bottom & out the top), you may stay in either lane as you go around.
Rule 4 - If you are going around 3 roads (eg. in the bottom & out the right side) you must go into the inner lane as you enter the roundabout and then cross over the outer lane when you are exiting. You have the right of way in your lane and as you are exiting.
My problem - I'm pedaling my fragile bike & unprotected body through at 15 kmh and the vehicles around are flying by at 50 - 60 kmh, I need to have a lot of faith that they will obey the rules and give me the right of way, as opposed to making me road kill (which we see a fair amount of, incidentally).
Then there is this monstrosity. Rule 3 actually applies for going around 3 or more roads.
Thanks to Tim & Judy Soles from New Zealand for patiently trying to explain this to me (and probably getting a few giggles from my concerned looks).
My solution:
Where Rules 2 & 3 apply I will stay in the outer lane of the roundabout. If Rule 4 applies I will change it to Rules 2 or 3 by going into and out of the roundabout and doing U-turns on the adjacent roads as often as necessary (possibly while becoming a pedestrian for the U-turn.)
I dunno. Drivers at home do not respect the concept of right away enough for me to feel comfortable!
No pictures of the countryside today, although there are lots of pretty spots.
As we entered into Newcastle, we went through half a dozen roundabouts (safely!) and pedaled towards our hotel we went downhill towards the river and turned right (still safely) and all of a sudden saw 4 bridges spaced closely together. Two for vehicles only, one for rail only and one double decker with rail on top & vehicles on the bottom.
On the other side of the river is this, the Sage Gateshead. It's a music venue & cultural centre.
Our hotel overlooks the river. The trains crossing the bridge may be a noisy - hopefully they don't run often at night.
Here's a better view of the bridges looking east. We will be crossing the red & white one tomorrow, as we leave for Whitby.
Before dinner we visited the Centurion Pub, a converted passenger lounge in the train station behind the hotel.
There is lots more to see here, but unfortunately no time. Another, longer stay is required.
Off to bed for some sleep, where I will probably be having roundabout nightmares!
129 km today, in fog in the morning and heavy cloud in the afternoon. A long day.
We convoyed (single file, Gergo in lead) 6 km out of Edinburgh, going east until we hit the Firth of Forth at a town (suburb?) called Portobello. So, the question is is the area named after the mushroom or vice versa? (Trust me to ask the tough questions, eh?). Here's a shot along the beach in the fog.
Not too far into the trip we came across the gateway to the Winton Castle dating back to 1480 (the land was granted in 1150). Private, not for a bunch of sweaty cyclists wanting Lattes.
Wikipedia says it is a pretty swish example of Scottish Renaissance architecture.
I forgot to mention, today was our longest ride of the trip, and included a nasty 300 metre climb. Foggy all the way up and particularly so at the top of the climb (about 40 km into the ride). No point in trying to show you any of the bad photos I took.
On the other side of the hill I noticed this cute little church, the Cranshaws Parish Church. I suspect it would be chilly
And, just a bit further up the road was this stone cottage in a large sheep field. What fascinated me was that I couldn't see anything that looked like a driveway or permanent road access to the place. The windows also appear to be gone.
Possibly abandoned, or only occasionally accessed across the field.
Not like abandoned farm buildings in BC - most are rotted away in 50 years.
Next, a milestone as we cross the River Tweed via the Union Suspension Bridge - we have left Scotland and are in England.
The bridge was opened in 1820. It doesn't use cables to support the deck; instead they are metal rods (copper clad, by the colour of the oxidation?). The masonry towers are massive and stunning.
The other feature of this bridge is that it has a one vehicle load limit. How many cyclists does it take to exceed the limit? Before or after lunch?
And just past the bridge is this beautiful house. The quintessential English cottage (except for the automobile)
Our route eventually came back to the North Sea north of Bamburgh. The main feature there is the Bamburgh Castle. The site was originally built on by Celtic Britons around 500 A.D. That was destroyed by Vikings in 993 and the Normans rebuilt it.
Unfortunately, we were too late for a tour and leave too early for a tour tomorrow.
We finished the day a bit further south in Seahouses and are staying in the Bamburgh Castle Inn. Just in front of the Inn is this small private harbour.
That's it for today - we have a mere 87 km tomorrow, but I have some bones and a sore toosh that need rest.
A day off today, but first things first. We have a logistical problem - no nearby laundry open on Sunday. Two choices - search far and wide for one that is open or do it yourself, by stomping on it as you have a shower. Guess which option we chose.
At breakfast a bunch of us were joined by Michael & Catriona, who were in Edinburgh & dropped by.
Here's a photo of the group. Left to right: Kate, Catriona, Dan, Shirley, Brett, Laura, me, Henry (owner of TDA Cycling) and Michael.
All of us, including another couple on this trip (Tony & Michel) were on all or part of the 2015 South America tour.
Onto today's activities: First, Edinburgh Castle. Second, an apology for any facts I get wrong. The castle is total historical overload.
The Portico. A moat (behind me), heavy doors and the spiked gate.
I believe this is on the highest part of the hill, and is one of the oldest parts of the castle.
The oldest parts dated from 1170, with additions through the 19th century. As late as WW2, German & Italian POWs were here.
This part is where the Scottish crown jewels are housed. No photos & they wouldn't let me put on the crown. Note the date on the tower. No photos allowed inside, either
Meet Mons Meg - the ultimate weapon of her Medieval day. She shot 300 pound cannonballs up to 2 miles. She was a siege cannon, designed to knock holes in castle walls.
Part of another, later gun battery. There were at least two major batteries within the castle.
Structures at the top of the hill.
This is part of Queen Mary's Chapel.
Part of the Royal Apartments. The Royals preferred Holyrood Castle down at the other end of the Royal mile, as it was rather dull and chilly up here when the fog was around.
Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to her son James VI in the closet next to this room (I dunno why the closet).
We popped over to the prison area & had a quick look. This is one of the doors.
Last photo of the castle is the Governor's Residence, which is still private.
That's enough for Edinburgh Castle. One two hour visit doesn't do it justice and only makes your head spin.
Make sure you rent an audio tour if you come here - it is well worth it and super informative, but I'd need multiple visits to soak it in.
We've just finished a short nap and are heading out for a while. I'll try to add some more pix of our walk down the Royal Mile later, if I get time.
Back after dinner. The laundry has dried nicely (I know you wanted to know that) and we're well fed.
After the castle we tripped down the Royal Mile, named because the distance between Edinburgh castle & Hollyrood Palace is about a mile and presumably becuase it was an occasion for the locals to watch the Royals travel by.
Remember the church that I said I would find out the name of? It is called the Hub and is a cultural & event (weddings, for example) centre. It was used by the church of Scotland, but never consecrated as a church. Here's a view of it from the other side.
My other chore was to find out about the walkway two stories above the street. Its called Victoria Terrace and was created when the street was re-designed to allow easier access to the Grass Market Square.
The Royal Mile has shops, restaurants & pubs both sides, similar to what I've shown you already. One of the more interesting aspect ts are the "Closes," hallway size openings in the continuous lines of the buildings. They extend back, with doorways to shops or apartments each side, and a small courtyard with 4 - 6 story buildings all around. There is one of the closes to the right in this photo, behind the red car.
Here's one of the courtyards - quite claustrophobic.
And a doorway off to the side - check out the date!
At the end of the Royal Mile is Hollyrood Palace. We didn't go into it ($$) and we were both getting footsore.
The fountain just inside the entrance.
After a break we went out to the Fiddler's Arms for a beer (Joker IPA) and dinner. The menu had "Locally caught Haggis, Neeps, and Taters." After a discussion with the waitress, I found out that Haggis caught early in the morning is best. So, why not - there it is. It was actually quite good. Even the Neeps were quite edible (my Mom wouldn't believe I ever said that!)Warm goat cheese salad on the side. Laura had a Steak and Guinness pie. Since it was too much for her, I helped out with it as well.
126 km tomorrow - our longest day. I'll try to do a report if I can sit down after that long in the saddle.
104 jaunt today. Started off misty. We had a few sunny periods, enough to require sunscreen, and threatening rain towards the end of the day.
Here's a misty morning scene.
And some of the locals - they looked to be a different breed than the classic sheep.
I bleeted at them, but they didn't reply. Must be Gaelic sheep ?
We basically crossed Scotland today - Kilmarnock near the west side and Edinburgh on the east side. We had to traverse 2 'lofty' hills of about 300 & 250 meters high. Not like crossing the Rockies, but still a bit of a grunt.
Not sure what this was. We saw these hills on the east side after the hills. Guessing they might be man made and might be old coal slag heaps.
There was coal mining in this area, from maps I looked up.
My other fun picture - a cow controlled stoplight (sorry about the poor quality of the photo). Well, Bossy doesn't actually throw the switch, but according to a sign just up the road, when the light is on there will be cows crossing.
We rolled into Edinburgh and found the hotel (I made one navigation error for a 10 minute delay), got our stuff put away. Our hotel is right downtown on the Grassmarket Square. Nice place - the rooms are smaller than last night but very nice. Right outside the hotel we get this view of the castle.
Wandering about, here's a couple more shots nearby:
The square itself
One of the streets nearby. Note above the painted buildings - there is a walkway there. You can see the railing. I'll try and find out about this tomorrow.
Not sure of the name of this one - will check again tomorrow.
That's it for tonight. Tomorrow is the Castle, strolling the Royal Mile and other sights nearby. Probably won't go far as there is too much right down here.
We started from the hotel in Newcastle and worked our way out of town. Cloudy and chilly, but not raining. At about 37 km we left the road and went onto a portion of the National Cycling Network, a set of connecting trails for cyclists. A lot of the trails are not that great for touring bikes, and can be muddy, so Gergo (tour leader) had been avoiding them until now. This one was quite dry and was an old rail bed. It was easy to ride on, and was mostly below the adjacent grade (no views). With the trees growing over it often seemed like travelling in a tunnel. We rode about 10 km of the trail and went under about 5 of these old brick overpasses. Most of them seemed disused now.
